Tonearms
We know a thing or two about them
Tonearms
—Is a tonearm with many adjustments better?
—Which tonearm type is better, straight or curved?
—The tonearm should be as light as possible, right?
—Are 12" tonearms better than the 9" ones?
—Are linear tracking tonearms superior to the pivoting types?
—Do I need to match my cartridge to the tonearm effective mass?
—How do I choose a cartridge for my existing turntable?
—I heard that connectors and solder joints degrade sound. Isn't having a continuous cable from the cartridge to preamp better?
— Which tonearm type is better, straight or curved?
— The shape itself doesn't matter one bit. Usually, the tonearms with removable headshell are curved, and the ones with a fixed headshell are straight. But of course there are exceptions.

There are some overenthusiastic marketing people who write that the kinks in the armtube somehow "manage", "mitigate" or "decrease" resonances. This is of course fiction.

— The tonearm should be as light as possible, right?
— Not really.

Tonearm's main role is to provide a stable platform for the cartridge.

— Is the cartridge with the lowest moving mass always better?
— Not really. Moving mass is certainly an important factor, but there seems to be a threshold below which it doesn't matter so much any more.

There are plenty of cartridges with low and very low moving mass that do not sound special. On the other hand, there are great pickup cartridges with positively huge moving mass, ranging from Denon DL-103 to Audio Technica AT-ART1000.

— Are MC (moving coil) cartridges always better than all other types?
— Generally, most very high performance magnetic cartridges are indeed of the moving coil type.

MC's position at the top of audiophile pickup hierarchy is due to a combination of factors. They are listed below, in the order of relative importance.

  • Low inductance, and thus low energy storage. MC coil inductance is 2-3 orders of magnitude lower than MM or MI's
  • High body rigidity: MC cartridges are typically milled or 3D printed out of metal
  • A nice and clear vibration path away from the stylus. The suspension is usually directly connected to the cartridge's body
  • Reasonable moving mass: even when wound over an iron core, the coils do not weigh much
  • Stable constant magnetic field around the coils

It's interesting to note that nothing really prevents anyone from building an MM or MI cartridge with the same attributes. But cartridge makers prefer to focus their engineering investment on moving coil ones.

Exceptions like the Top Wing prove that the cartridge mustn't necessarily be of moving coil type to achieve remarkable performance.
There is an oft-repeated misconception that MCs sound better just because of their lower moving mass. The lowest published moving mass cartridge is a moving magnet (MM), Technics EPC-100C Mk4.
Please note we are only discussing magnetic pickup cartridges here. There are many other types, like optical, strain gauge, capacitive etc. All of them have remarkable sonic potential and can be built to a level competitive with top MCs.

— How long does the stylus last? How do I know it's time to change it?
— Anywhere from 500 to 3000 hours. See the next question for the factors affecting longevity.

The second part of the question is even harder to answer. Without an advanced microscope, it's next to impossible to tell when the stylus is due for replacement. You might "feel" that something is off, but sometimes the worn styli even measure quite close to the new ones.

If you tend to use only one cartridge/stylus, calculating replacement interval is a good idea. Listening on average for an hour a day, you should be buying a new stylus in 4-5 years' time.
Put a little sticker on the back of your turntable with the date of stylus replacement, and you will know for sure when to get a new one.

— Is it true that advanced styli last longer than simple ones?
— All other things being equal, yes, to an extent.

Many factors influence the stylus longevity. The geometric shape of the stylus is but one of them. Simple conical styli wear fastest. Ellipticals and hyperellipticals seem to be the optimal shapes for longevity. Some more advanced line contact styli last less, and sometimes (thank God infrequently) fail catastrophically, with bits chipping off.

The quality of the diamond itself is arguably more important than the shape. A polished grain-oriented conical, like in a Denon DL-103, will easily outlast a bonded hyperelliptical. Natural mined diamonds used in the 1970s and 80s seem to last a lot longer than today's synthetics.

— Do styli have expiry date? Do cartridges?
— Styli and cartridges with integrated (non-removable) styli, yes. Cartridge bodies without a stylus, generally no.

The shelf life of the stylus is determined by an elastomer "donut" holding the cantilever in place. These elastomers vary widely in longevity. Some are good for decades, some for just a few years. Generally the softer they are the quicker they go wrong, but there are exceptions.
When buying styli and, especially, moving coil cartridges, make sure you are getting recently made ones. There are more than a few unscrupulous retailers selling styli produced in the 1980s (and even 1970s!) as "brand new".
MM/MI cartridge bodies are just a few coils in a box. Nothing to go wrong there... usually. In reality, copper can corrode, cores can delaminate, and the glue holding the cartridge parts together can turn into dust. This happens very seldom—typically when you receive that elusive cartridge body you were long searching for, shipped at a great cost from across the globe.